A cabinet-specific process — degreasing, sanding and de-glossing, bonding primer, and durable finish coats for kitchen cabinets, bathroom vanities, and built-ins. Doors and drawer fronts are removed, labeled, and refit, and prep is matched to your cabinets’ actual material and condition. Text photos of the cabinets for a quote.
A finish process built for cabinetry — not wall paint on doors.
Full kitchen repaints and color changes — boxes, face frames, doors, and drawer fronts. Kitchen cabinets live with grease, steam, and daily handling, so degreasing and adhesion prep come before any color does.
Vanities and bathroom cabinets, prepped with products suited to a humid room. Plumbing stays untouched — this is a finish project, not a remodel; see bathroom updates for the bigger scope.
An island in a contrast color, light uppers over dark lowers, or one statement piece — two-tone schemes are planned per project so the break lines land cleanly.
Laundry cabinets, built-ins, and similar casework where the material suits refinishing. Laminate and thermofoil surfaces get a compatibility review first — not every surface takes paint well, and we’ll say so.
Cabinet finishes fail at the prep stage, not the paint stage. The process: hardware removed; doors and drawer fronts removed and labeled so everything returns to its place; surfaces degreased and cleaned; sanded and de-glossed for adhesion; appropriate repairs and filling; a bonding primer suited to the surface; then finish coats — sprayed or brushed to suit the piece, the product, and the setting. The number of coats is determined by the surface, the color change, and the coverage needed for the finished result.
Solid wood and properly prepared MDF generally refinish well. Laminate, thermofoil, and previously coated surfaces vary — adhesion depends on the material and the product system, peeling thermofoil can’t be painted back into shape, and water-swollen MDF needs repair or replacement, not paint. We review photos first and tell you honestly whether refinishing suits your cabinets.
One more honest note: durability comes from prep, product, and how the kitchen is used — no finish is chip-proof, and fresh finishes need gentle treatment while they cure, even after they feel dry.
Doors and drawer fronts come off and go back on — labeled, refit, and adjusted where the hinges support it. New pulls, knobs, and hinge swaps can be included in the project scope, including filling old holes and drilling for new hardware spacing where needed.
Big color changes get the primer they need — stain-blocking where tannins or old finishes would bleed through, bonding primer where adhesion is the question. Open-grain wood like oak keeps some grain texture under paint; grain filling for a fully smooth look is additional scope, discussed up front rather than discovered later.
Sprayed and brushed finishes each have their place — the method depends on the piece, the product, the workspace, and the masking a kitchen allows. Neither is universally superior, and in an occupied home the masking, ventilation, and staging get planned before the first coat.
Plan for the kitchen to be partially out of service during the project — timing depends on the scope, the product’s recoat and cure times, and drying conditions. We’ll sequence the work to keep disruption reasonable, and we won’t rush a cure to hit a slogan.
Refinishing suits cabinets whose boxes and doors are structurally sound. When cabinets are failing or the layout needs to change, that’s a different conversation: new customer-supplied cabinets are built and installed through cabinet assembly & installation, custom woodwork and repairs are carpentry, and backsplash, counters, and hardware-only refreshes live on kitchen updates.
Door and drawer count, material, the current finish, the color change, two-tone schemes, repairs, grain filling, hardware swaps, spraying vs. brushing, and working in an occupied home all shape the project. For an accurate quote, send photos of the cabinets and the door and drawer count.
Duration depends on the door and drawer count, material, repairs, color change, and the product’s cure times — the quote sets the schedule.
Kitchen or bath, door and drawer count, material, and color direction.
Adhesion, repairs, and the right product system for your cabinets.
What’s included, agreed and priced up front.
Hardware off; doors and fronts labeled; degrease, sand, de-gloss, and repair.
Bonding primer suited to the surface, then finish coats to coverage.
Doors and drawers refit and adjusted where supported — then a walkthrough with you.
Painting customer reviews — real Handychief customers in the Pensacola area.
“Painted the kitchen cabinets — total transformation. Even and smooth, looks professionally done. Saved thousands vs. replacement.”
“Interior trim and doors painted throughout the house. Crisp, clean lines. Andrew was meticulous and left the place spotless.”
Serving Pensacola and nearby communities, including Gulf Breeze, Pace, Milton, Navarre, Cantonment, Perdido Key, and Pensacola Beach.
Often, yes — when the boxes and doors are structurally sound, refinishing changes the look without demolition. When cabinets are failing or the layout needs to change, replacement or new cabinets make more sense, and we’ll tell you honestly which conversation you’re in.
Solid wood and properly prepared MDF generally refinish well. Laminate, thermofoil, and previously coated surfaces are reviewed for adhesion first — not every surface takes paint well, and peeling thermofoil or water-swollen MDF needs repair, not paint.
Yes — hardware comes off, and doors and drawer fronts are removed and labeled so everything returns to its place, then refit and adjusted where the hinges support it.
Usually, with the right prep. Open-grain wood like oak keeps some grain texture under paint unless grain filling is added to the scope, and previously painted surfaces are checked for adhesion before recoating.
A durable cabinet-appropriate product, often in a satin or semi-gloss sheen — but the right system depends on the cabinets, the use, and the product manufacturer’s requirements. Durability comes from prep and cure, not sheen alone.
Yes — new pulls, knobs, and hinge swaps can be included in the project scope, including filling old holes and drilling for new hardware spacing where needed.
Timing depends on the door and drawer count, material, repairs, the color change, and the product’s recoat and cure times — and fresh finishes need gentle treatment while they cure. Send photos for a project-specific review.
Photos of the cabinets, whether it’s a kitchen, bath, or built-in, the door and drawer count if known, the material and current finish, your color direction, and any peeling or damage. Text it to (850) 556-2900 for a quote before scheduling.
Send photos of the cabinets and your color direction — we’ll review the material and quote the project before scheduling.